Time series are one of the most common data types encountered in daily life. I'll post more steps soon I also updated the interior with some spare padding I had laying around. Yes I have to say the cheek tubes are scary to do, I've messed up on a few areas. Here's a mock up of my Rogue One Black Series so far with all my mods. But the stuff works well for the effect, just may need to overlap the end with another piece. -Respirator (for breathing when using Bondo), -Latex Gloves (for superglue contact on your finger), *****Black Series R1TK Helmet modifications*****. Thanks for the pointers. As soon as you do this you'll need to wipe it down, leaving behind only what is left in the groove. Paste as plain text instead, × A big improvement, aside from the lack of stickiness at the edges, no matter how much I push it down. The brow is the same story. Why blue tape? Press the parts all together, and let it cure with tape or a brace around it to keep constant pressure. The cheek tubes are looking great. After slotting on, I would trim it down to size, but I'd advise having it overlap with the front half of the helmet's trim, so that it looks much smoother. I'm going to take that out, and put the wire in, then screw the black piece back in. But you tore off the OLD ONE... What do you do? is it just me or the picture links are broken? Now it's time to replicate one of the most noticeable features on this TK helmet: The vocoder tubes. Mainly I cut the indentations out with a rotary tool using a blade, and a bit to fix the edges. It is believed that while the show takes real world experiences and uses them in the storylines, over half of the awesome and draw-dropping episodes we see are not real. A last and final note is that this is how to make your BS Bucket APPROVABLE, not be 100% screen accurate. Aside from a few wrinkles at the very ends of the brow where I tucked it into the helmet, it hopefully will pass. Next update: Repainting the rear half with possibly a better paint... we'll see how it goes... good to see the neck trim trick. You cannot paste images directly. Do this all along the inside, have half of the pieces stick out. So I'll be utilizing some pictures of the original BS helmet, with crappy circles and arrows I drew to highlight the parts I'm talking about. Will have more soon, I own a hasbro bs bucket since last Christmas. One of the most noticeable things is that the cheeks of the faceplate are a little wider, thus resulting in the rest of the sides of the helmet being wider. Luckily, this isn't molded into the plastic like the front neck hole section is, so it's easier to do. The most accurate way to do this would be to completely seperate the jaw from the rest of the helmet and reattach through adding shims in the underside, but because that'd be a struggle, the best solution is to cut an groove all along the area where the seam should be. Feel free to use if you'd like. Then later on I would update the first post with all the mods/materials that I bought/did to make it visually accurate. This thread helps a lot. There are tons of builds on here that show various ways to do this, so it's pretty self-explanatory: Cut to shape, find best way to place it, then glue. The more pressure, the more reflection. Get the most accurate measurements using your Apple Watch - … Paint some blue styrene plastic a nice blue color. Superglue won't do it? PAINT THE HELMET! Machine Bias There’s software used across the country to predict future criminals. Also regarding the tube stripes, to cut them out I'm using a rotary tool with a few bits (including saw bit), and some files to clean them up. To answer your second question first, I completely hollowed out the tube stripes, and am planning on backing the underside with something blue. Impressive work so far! However if I find the time I will be sure to update if that's the case! I'm using Tapatalk. Once you have a feel for it, take out the tubes. 501st Legion - 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment -Dremel Tool with assorted grinding bits. Look forward to seeing your mods! Bondo filler between skull cap and face. Squirt glue first (not in globs) on the base, spread it thinly/evenly, then slowly and methodically tape your brow to the glued region. (last 2 grits are for polishing. Because of this for some reason it doesn't want to stick do well. There you have it, for a little over $100 you can have a more accurate shooting open sight muzzleloader. So instead of writing it down in an update, why not just make a video showing all the mods and explaining what I did? After this, file the stripes smooth with various files (or if you don't have these, use folded sandpaper to get right-angle grinds). Merry Christmas btw! Then its time to actually put it on for good. Mask off the grey sections carefully, and paint the entire helmet with Rustoleum 2X Ultra Coat Gloss white paint. ****UPDATE! Here's how the brow looks with the electrical tape. Nice price for both of them. That is the part that I am likely going to leave to last as it scares the heck out of me - too much opportunity for a catastrophic slip with the Dremel!!! Some of the tape ran over onto the faceplate under the brow. Anyhow, until then, hope this thread has been of help to everyone! For all we know, the jaw seam may not be neccesary for basic! Make sure they are wide pieces too. It is very possible, with even some Youtube tutorials which were made on the topic. I am already finishing up one I put on the helmet with bondo. Be sure to check your health condition at this point, because your vocoder will look as hideous as in the picture below, and you could have a heart attack. I'd recommend doing it at the top, bottom, and very edges of the strip. Got some cheap screen wire from Ace Hardware in their screen section. In order to keep it in place I unseeded it, stuck the grill sections over the pegs so that they poke through, then re-skrewed the black piece over it. 12/08/2020**** Believe me, I've run into this problem from going heavy on it. Hopefully it should work fine! Alright to start off, the bucket is sculpted really well and once held up to a screen grab, is nearly identical. I noticed that the overall shape is like a L with a hook at the top, which you can see in the above picture. Lastly, it’s time to adjust the actual colors on your screen. Making it highlighted to look like a seam. My Black Series mod. For me, this helped give me confidence that I could hold more accurately on target, see the entire target and not cover anything up. Howeer, nothing a little Loctite Superglue gel won't fill (obviously may need some white touch up paint though xD ). These are typically used for repair work on screen doors. Second question is more practical. And it’s biased against blacks. You can see how the right eye swoops down on the bottom, will the right eye's bottom has more of an arc. So electrical tape works, and hopefully once a CRL is up and functioning, it could pass basic. I followed your method regarding use of black electrical tape for the brow. It's not super bad at first glance but once you look into it you'll see it. Make sure they're even coats, and make sure they're not too thick. So using a rotary tool with a saw bit, make a cut into the corner, but not a deep cut, just an indent that's a little deep. Now I need to do this to the e6000 area because e6000 is more latex like than hard, so if you sand it it'll fray at the edges. They have little screen repair kits in small packets. I haven't done any mods lately (mainly because I havent made any trips to the hardware store), but my next move is to get some wire screen material to screen doors, and insert some behind the mouth. Upload or insert images from URL. Amazon.com: Star Wars B7097 Imperial Stormtrooper Electronic … Today I did a rough cut at the tie stripes, and once cleaned up with a file or something, I'll put some blue tape underneath. The tube stripes present a problem for me, mainly because without cutting areas of the ear inserts inside the faceplate it won't be possible.My main plan was to cut them out, put a blue painted strip of plastic in there, and depending on how snug the fit is, may not even need to glue it in, seeing as how in a recent interview they said it was an actual vent.
In regards to the grey cheek panels, I would say it could pass a basic approval when a CRL comes out. Finally, I noticed that I has two very small air bubbles on the front of the brow. That's what I requested from Tony, and he delivered. Please keep the pix/mod's coming. No need to worry Vaphil, a completely appropriate question. Then grab your polishing compound (mine is Mcguires) and apply it in small sections all over the white parts of the helmet, one section at a time. I think the first is the right answer, but confirmation is appreciated. × So you're going to need to fill that part in with Bondo first, then 2 part Epoxy to top it off. Added grill to the mouth, as seen on the screen used R1 helmet. It's pretty smooth now, but you need to sand. Powered by Invision Community, Costuming and Builds Original Trilogy (501st Approved), HOWTO: Make Black Series R1 bucket more accurate. Keep it coming - looking to mod my BS now that I have the Jedha pack sorted. You can see it in this image. that would be great!!! It's much more lined up than the old trim which didn't look any good. Did anyone get a backup? Then E6000 them in place from the inside, so they'll stay there forever. I bought the black one because on the screen used helmer it isn't too visible, but I may go back just to highlight them a bit more (possibly repaint with aluminum spray paint or stee...l wool). I know his stuff is more cheap, but even Adam Savage on Tested reccomended this stuff), I plugged it into the speaker best I could, then with a bondo knife (tan flat scoop things by bondo), I scraped off the excess. It should have been done at an angle so that it actually went into the jaw, instead of a seam just above the jaw and in the cheek of the helmet. Next step: Filling in the speaker and battery compartment lid in the rear of the Black Series Rogue One helmet. I'm thinking of doing that with mine because for some odd reason the edges refuse to stick to the top.... but with the tape make sure no noticeable tape overlap or seams are present. You see overlap lines in the blue portion of the tube stripes, which makes it look like tape. From what I can see this is exactly the direction I'd like to take my BS helmet in - I'm having trouble seeing the majority of the photographs though. I would recommend you do this with frog-masking tape and e6000. I took the hosing and wrapped it in and out of the holes, to see how it'll go. It feels better, but still needs a little more. Here's to hoping! Now you have only the soft part. Fix Color Saturation and Tint for More Accurate Colors. In order to create that gap on the bottom between the 3 middle tubes and the 2 tubes on the edges, grab your Dremel tool with the cutting bit and chop off the bottom section of the plastic vocoder. Then after failing to get plastidip out of the can I untaped the helmet and some plastidip already on came off with it in an area or 2. I did this on mine, and it makes it look like a gap. I also believe that the image shows that there is a black tramline running around the cheek and brow rhomboid. Can i ask, did you paint the entire bucket after filling the speaker slots and battery compartment? Connect meter earth connection to ground: It is often difficult to hold two probes, steady a board and then adjust a switch in the meter all at the same time. There are many tighter / better pics out there than these, but I did try and get some unusual angles for a few of the shots. One for the underside and middle front of brow, and the other for entire front of brow and top. But before doing that I reccomend supergluing the neck hole edge before putting the rubber trim on. The first thing you want to adjust is the TV's picture mode. Hopefully once the weather gets warmer I'll be able to paint it with a friend. Now on the Black Series this is 1 molded piece, so I had to make an artificial seam. Anybody else having similar issues? Also how I put on the electrical tape is by separating the helmet sections, and I put 2 pieces of tape on the brow. Display as a link instead, × Sanded a little bit to make it flush, and I have 1 more thing to do to both the putty and the e6000: superglue. It just didn't line up with the trim in the front, so toss that. I think that whilst the R1 TK helmet had the mesh under the grill, I am sure that the attached reference shows that it was not 'backed' i.e. or was it easy to just paint match the back? Parquette, December 9, 2016 in Rogue One. If you want to get a more accurate measurement of your VO2 max, perform a gentle warm-up, then open the “Workout” app on your watch and select the workout you want to do. I used the saw bit for the rotary tool first, then other bits to clean it up. This restricts head room (or is unwearable for us big headed folk), and looks bad from the bottom. Couple of questions here. Thoughts on brow welcome hopefully I'm not kidding myself with the tape (I have it slightly tucked into the skullcap so it stays down. But nothing stopped me from improvising. Your previous content has been restored. I also believe that the image shows that there is a black tram line running around the cheek and brow rhomboid. × But before adding to your frustration, keep an eye on the CRL thread for any information regarding the helmet in the different levels. I've started to mod mine kinda as you have and been going round noting the (many) tiny details that there are to be addressed - one of them being the annoying gloss black outlines on the cheek and side grey panels - on the screen used there are no outlines - rather in fact it's shadow where they are actual inserts into the helmet and there's grit and muck in the little gaps. Those will act as "shims" to create a non-visible gap, thereby allowing the most MINUTE of air space. Cut that entirely off. Measuring Voltage. Note: This Update is the full tutorial on the major things that need to be done so that it can truly become an approvable R1TK Bucket. Clear editor. By Usually it is preferable to use as much a priori information as possible to make the model more accurate. Speaking of which... 6. Any chips or notches your knife may make can easily be filled in with Bondo. I am planning on using a wireless microphone/speaker system I heard other 501st members using at my first troop (not 501st yet, but they let me ). Went and saw Rogue One again for the 2nd time (first was at premiere night). *********, The write up is excellent but the picture links are still down. This setting usually has the biggest impact on picture quality. Got some cheap screen wire from Ace Hardware in their screen. If you went more towards the top of the actual jaw itself it would look better. Wetsand with 1000 - 15000 sandpaper, anywhere it's white. I love it that you can see in R1 that some of the stormtrooper extras pulled their frowns down for the hero look. The fantastic hi res image is available here: https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8604/28089834910_019dda3a55_o.jpg. This one is pretty self explanatory: Just use your DREMEL cutting and sanding wheels and grind down until flush, then sand smooth. You just use a pocket-knife or something to pry it into the underside, then tear it off. Be very light, you don't want any of the glue visible in the exterior of the tube stripes, nor the e6000 actually melting the thin styrene. Peaky Blinders, starring Cillian Murphy as Tommy Shelby, follows a gang in the streets of Birmingham.The show takes place in post World War I England, a major era of history. After reading some reviews, I found more Negative reviews than Positive ones; mainly because Hasbro boasted about the Voice Changer they fell short on that promise. Then I put e600 over the battery compartment lid, because it was difficult to get the putty into the cracks (unless you took out the lid, stuffed the putty on all the edges, then placed back in and removed the excess, which I didn't think of until after doing the e6000). After you've made the groove, sand both at the edges and inside it to get rid of any rough sections. If you went more towards the top of the actual jaw itself it would look better. This stuff's edges don't want to stick very well). 'A.D. Putting them on favorites for my build. By In addition, I have dug through my GPS tracks from outdoor bike rides as well (including some mountain areas), and found it pretty much fine. If any help then here's a link to the pics I took at Celebration Europe last year. It took away a few spots inside the speaker, but it's not bad. But, there is no doubt that these also have a greater 3D 'pop' than is present on the BS helmet. Also have some excess trim from X-wing helmet so that may be a go-er too. Like the title says, reweave the vocoder through the holes. If anything, it might allow for easier air circulation to get in. If the COVID-19 vaccine from Pfizer and BioNTech was good enough to get a nod from the FDA, the vaccine from Moderna and the NIH almost certainly is as well. Is it possible to 'tinker' with the helmet to Fix the Voice Changer? I wouldn't fret too much about it, seeing as how you don't notice a difference until you really get up close to it. Will pluck up the courage soon for the tube stripe cut away. Here's my R1 Black Series mod currently I changed the brow to look lower by adding on rubber strips in the front and underside. I'll put it on the holes and cracks in the putty, smear with my finger, and repeat the process until there are no holes. I haven't added any tape to the upper surface of the brow. In regards to the accuracy, the frown is only a subtle difference, which shouldn't make a difference. Having own an EFX lid for almost threee years now, modded it, and thinking about how to get rid of the damn seam line below the teeth... it's very disappointing to learn that I've to provide a seam in this bucket! Here's the interior of my helmet, with 2 different kinds of padding. Does anyone else see the diagonal little lines in the blue? Updated title to reflect the article. Btw, pro-tip: Make sure after screwing in the helmet frame after putting the lenses in that it is not warped in any areas, due to improperly being screwed in. What's that? 3. Powered by Invision Community, Costuming and Builds Original Trilogy (501st Approved), HOWTO: Make Black Series R1 bucket more accurate. Additive models for time series modeling. I will warn those who wish to use the putty tgat, it stinks. Each picture mode has different default settings, and some of them behave differently from one another, even if you try and match the settings across modes. Just make sure you glue in areas that won't be seen. While this mod is mine, some images of my PROCESS have been lost to the sands of time (or data in this case). here's how my inside looks after cutting the massive lump out of the back and removing the voice changer... Yup! It looks very much like it's thin blue tape of sorts. Also in the first pic I just painted it with the Ace Hardware Gloss White Enamel paint. You cannot paste images directly. But because the tape us only do wide, I still have its edge showing at the top. Using fine pointed tweezers I then removed the excess tape very carefully. Take some styrene plastic scraps, and glue it to the interior of the helmet's neck hole. Good luck with your mods to your helmet! Happy with the pair but thinking about improving both. I'll stream through plenty of ref material before I tackle the jaw seamline. I'm more inclined to believe the computer, ha! 501st Legion - 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment Now, what I did was looked back at the infamous interview with the costume designer Glyn Dillon. Take extra care to sand out and remove any ABS plastic shards that didn't come off easily. Optional), -Styrene Plastic (For Sale Signs, Parking Signs, etc...). And there you have it! After letting it dry most of the way (impatience) I put loctite superglue over it, because e6000 is more latex like and if you sand it it's edges slightly start to peel. He said (and I paraphrase a little), "we actually designed those [tube stripes] to be working vents.". I'd suggest a super fine grit, so no lines are easily visible. More to come. Almost all portable electronics use direct current), not alternating current.Connect the black probe to the battery's ground or '-' and the red probe to power or '+'.
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